What to do in Oulu? | Finland beyond Helsinki and Lapland

Oulu ⁠— the stop before Lapland! It is the fourth largest city in Finland, located around 170 km south of the Arctic Circle. The city has been chosen as the European Capital of Culture for 2026. So if you happen to find yourself in this city, here is a list of things that you may want to check out.
Hunt the auroras: I mention this first as this was what brought me to the city for the first time. It was September of 2021 when I saw news of a period of high solar activity that may bring in good auroras. Oulu is one of the southernmost locations in Finland with frequent auroras. Unfortunately, the weekend we travelled to Oulu was cloudy and we got no show. However, it was during another trip later that year, that I finally managed to see the aurora in Oulu. The Facebook group Oulu Aurora Spotters has a map that tells the best locations in Oulu to see auroras. The group also has active members who post about aurora sightings almost immediately.

Winter cycling: Oulu is the winter cycling capital of the world and home to the Winter Cycling Federation. It has the most extensive network of cycling routes in Finland covering the entire city and also the neighbouring municipalities. Not only that they have the routes, but most of them are well maintained and kept illuminated even through the cold dark winters which is basically about half the year. The real thrill of cycling does come when the temperatures go as low as -20°C.

Meet the Toripolliisi: Be it sun or snow, the policeman is on duty overseeing the Oulu’s market square. The bronze statue sculpted by Kaarlo Mikkonen was unveiled in September 1987. It is dedicated to the market police officers who patrolled the area between 1934 and 1979. The Toripolliisi is probably the most recognizable and photographed landmark in the city. So don’t forget to get yourself clicked with the officer.

Eat and shop local at Kauppahalli: Built in 1901, the market hall or kauppahalli, as in Finnish, is one of the iconic buildings at Oulu’s market square. It is the third oldest market hall in Finland after Helsinki and Turku. The red brick building hosts several local merchants selling vegetables, meats, and other locally produced/manufactured items. A cup of coffee and some pastry or piirakka at one of the cafes here might be a good way to start your day in Oulu. Also, if you are looking for souvenirs to take back home, the Kauppahalli is the place to shop at.

Wonder the Wooden City: Just a walk away from the Kauppahalli is the historic Pikisaari island. Located in the estuary of Oulujoki River, the island was once used to house shipyards apart from several other industrial setups like sawmills, distilleries, wool mills, and machine workshops. The island derives its name from the pitch distillery established during the 17th century. Even today you can see some of the old wooden buildings that survived the fires and the test of time. The Sailor’s Home Museum from the early 18th century is said to be among the oldest. Currently, the island is a protected area with limited traffic and is home to some of the charming restaurants of the city. One that I can definitely recommend is the Sokeri-Jussin Kievari, located on a red wooden building just after you have crossed the bridge while coming from Kauppahalli.

Relax at Nallikari: Exit Pikisaari from the other end and head straight until you hit the sea ⁠— that’s where Nallikari beach is. In summer, you can enjoy a dip in the blue sea or practice a variety of water sports. While in winter, as the sea freezes, it is an ideal time to hone your skills in skiing, snow-shoeing, and even ice-fishing. Fat-biking on the vast flat whites is also something you must try while in Oulu.

Hop through the museums of Oulu: The Northern Ostrobothnia Museum is your destination if you want to learn more about the history of this once ‘most internationalized’ Finnish city. The museum, established in 1896, is more than 120 years old and houses exhibits and photographs far older. Among the exhibits, the primary eye-catcher is a miniature model of Oulu before the World War II bombings. Have a nice look at this model and head to the 45-meter tower adjoining Science Centre Tietomaa. See if you can identify where some of the important old buildings were located. The Science Centre Tietomaa was the first science center in Finland and tells stories ranging from technological advancements in Finland to some of the unique natural phenomena that happen in these arctic regions. I remember among the exhibits was a collection of mobile telephonic devices manufactured by Nokia including the game-changer Mobira Cityman 900. Close to the Science Centre is the Oulu Museum of Art which hosts an extensive collection of art, especially Oulu and Northern Ostrobothnia.

Pray at Oulu Cathedral: A distinguishing architecture with a dome and clock tower that you might observe while viewing the city from the top of Tietomaa is the Oulu Cathedral. While the current building was completed in 1832, it stands in the place of an erstwhile wooden church dating back to the 1610s. The current building was built atop the remanent of the stone church that was built to replace the wooden church in 1777 but was burnt down completely during the Oulu fire of 1822.

Check out the remains of Oulu castle: Close to the market square, in the vast green zone along the Oulujoki River, is reminiscent of centuries of history. While it might now be difficult to identify the observation tower as a castle, it is at this site a once impenetrable castle stood in the 1370s. As per records, the castle was built and rebuilt several times and what stands today dates to 1875 when the Oulu School of Sea Captains built their observatory. Currently, the observatory hosts a cafeteria with a small exhibition on the castle’s history.

Ruska: If you are visiting Oulu somewhere around late September or early October, you are just in time for one of the most beautiful seasons to visit Finland. The trees turn yellow preparing to shed their leaves for the winter but put on a final show before they go barren. Especially during the golden hour, the autumn foliage adds a wonderful splendour of colors to the already beautiful landscape. Either experience it up close by taking a stroll in the parks of Oulu or drive down the highways and admire the streets lined with yellowed birch trees. If nothing else, the yellow mohabbatein leaves at Ainolan Puisto would definitely help you fall in love with the city.

Bonus: Where to stay?
While there are several options you will find on Booking.com or AirBnB or any other websites, I will recommend a property that is named “Lovely apr with sauna at the best area of Oulu”. It is a studio apartment suitable for up to two people. Undoubtedly, this is one of the best places I have stayed in while travelling. It is about 4 km from the city centre in an area with limited public transport facilities but just 1 km from the Nallikari beach (one of the recommended places for aurora hunting). If you prefer walking, the shortest path passes through Pikisaari Island.

BTW how to reach Oulu?
Oulu is literally connected by all three modes of transport to the world. You can sail through the Baltic Sea and the Gulf of Bothnia, from anywhere to Oulu. Oulu also has its own airport with direct connections to several European destinations. However, if you are already within Finland or in the Nordics, you might also consider taking the trains or buses. Oulu is connected to Helsinki and other Finnish cities with regular services throughout the day including an overnight train with sleeping berths. A limited number of buses also operate between Oulu and Tornio, where you can cross over to Sweden. The Haparanda bus and railway station have onward connections to several destinations within Sweden. During the peak summer and winter months, there are also direct buses all the way up to Tromsø in Norway. The Arctic Route buses operated from Tromsø connect to Rovaniemi and Oulu in Finland and some of the finest winter destinations in the Arctic including Narvik, Skjervoy, and the Lyngen Alps.

Did I miss anything? Please mention them in the comments below or message me on Instagram (@ag1805x). I might explore them during my next trip! Until then, check out my pictures from Oulu here.

My stories of chasing the aurora in Finland

“Because it is not only about the lights, but the stories behind it that excite me”

28 August 2021: a sudden stroke of luck

Back then, I had never expected to see the northern lights in Kuopio. Though I had heard about these rare sightings, I never expected to be that lucky to see the lights so close to my home. It was a Friday night and I had gone out with my bike to click the sunset (late summer sunset at around 8.30 pm), but by the time I could negotiate a hill and reach the other end of the town, it was already dark. However, the darkness had a surprise for me in store. Like every other day, I halted at the Särkilahti bridge to catch up on my breath from the 30 km ride. I was about to ignore a man thinking he was just out with his dog, but he had his camera and eyes fixed towards the sky. I would have missed the faint aurora but thanks to him it was my first encounter with the northern lights.

25 September 2021: a failed attempt

The September equinox is one of the times when the solar activity is at a peak and the chances of seeing the auroras are higher. It was also in the news about a certain day or days when the aurora might be visible — the start of the season. I decided to improve my chances by travelling further north to Oulu and was accompanied by a friend. At Oulu, we also put up at a place close to the beach which is among the best places to see northern lights in Oulu according to the Oulu Aurora Spotters group. But this trip taught us yet another lesson about travel and hunting auroras — be humble, keep your expectations in check and enjoy whatever comes your way. Every night might be not yours. It was overcast for both the nights we spent there and only cleared just a few hours before we were about to travel back to Kuopio. Even though our target remained unfulfilled, we ended up exploring the city amid the autumn colours.

19 December 2021: the year-end trip — a revisit to Oulu

Not one but the start of three shows. Due to changes in COVID-related travel rules, I had to cancel my trip to home in India and I ended up exploring Finland over two weeks. My first destination on the trip was Oulu. Hoping to catch up on some aurora this time, I again took an apartment close to yet another better aurora viewing spot a bit farther away from the city centre. But just like the previous time, it started getting overcast as soon I reached the city — the curse of Meghalaya. Clouds wouldn’t let me miss home. Cut to the second night. At around 9 pm, I got a notification on the Oulu Aurora Spotters FB group that the auroras were visible. Immediately I reached the Meri-Toppilan puisto which at that time glittered under the white full moon. On the far end of the Gulf of Bothnia, I could feel some strange lines amid the dark sky. My camera was much better at picking up the colours than my eye. Not much of a great show but definitely my first successful Aurora chase! I returned after staying there for over an hour.

20 December 2021: the year-end trip — with the real hunters

After spending two nights in Oulu, I reached Rovaniemi — the capital of Lapland. This is where most people visit in Finland during winter — for just two reasons: Santa Claus and auroras. The office of Santa Claus is located just a few kilometres outside the city, right over the Arctic Circle. Being on the Arctic Circle, Rovaniemi also happens to be the place where you could start seeing the auroras. It is said to be visible every other night during the winter months. The town has several companies that offer aurora hunting tours and one among them was Arctic Road Trips. I had been following them on Instagram for quite some time and their pictures made me determined that I had to take a trip with them. Thankfully I found a seat in their car for that night and we started the chase around 7.30 pm. After driving for about an hour outside the city, we started seeing the auroras. Still faint but understandable. We halted at a place close to a lake to get some pictures till the auroras started getting further faint and also as more people started coming in. Next, the chase took an adventurous turn as we decided to hike up a hill to get some better views. Though at the end we couldn’t see much of the aurora from the top, I would remember the night for the hike under the moonlit sky through the magical snow-covered alpine forest and an amazing barbecue.

25 December 2021: the year-end trip — Ahopää Kiilopää

The northernmost point of my trip was Kiilopää. Given its location, I was hoping to see some nice aurora and had planned to stay at least three nights. Even as I reached the place, the weather looked beautiful with the crimson hue over the horizon at noon marking the polar night’s sunrise/sunset. But soon the curse started haunting me again and the weather turned bad to the extent that there were strong winds and snow on the second day. I tried hiking up to the fell but had to return from mid-way as I could hardly find the trail. However, for the next five days, the overcast conditions actually helped me by maintaining the temperature around -10°C else it would have been difficult for me to bike and hike in the fells of Kiilopää. Christmas finally brought in some presents — the night was clear and indications were high. I along with another South Korean guy ended up hiking halfway to the fell. But soon we realised that the winds were too strong to stay there for long and the blowing snow made it difficult to take clear pictures. We descended to a spot where the wind was comparatively low but the auroras were not that strong. The camera could just manage to capture a starry sky with a flat greenish background. Also, though Kiilopää is an isolated place with minimal inhabitants, it is the lights from Saariselkä in the north that prevented a nice view.

12 February 2022: at home

It was another uneventful Friday night and I was not expecting much. Just before I was heading to bed, I saw an Instagram story about the lights visible further south in Tampere. I cross-checked in the Aurora live cam and it was seriously there. The next thing I did was to go out to the balcony and check the skies — clear it was. Yet without much excitement, I went to the lake and started checking if my cam could see anything. There was something green. I now had to see where I see them better. From all the pictures I had previously seen, I knew it was usually visible in the direction of Puijo tower, so I found a nice place and pointed my cam there and started a time-lapse shoot. The auroras were pulsating in the sky. But for some reason, I had to turn to the other direction and realised that the actual show was going on there and was getting better so that I could capture it on my mobile camera as well. At this moment I knew I had to call someone who couldn’t afford to regret not having seen the aurora — for the first time — so close to home. We spent the next two or three hours enjoying the show as it got crazier. Even for me, I would like to mark this as the first real show and I am glad I saw it with some good company.

13 March 2022: all over the sky

At around 7-8 pm when I was enjoying some home-cooked biriyani, I saw an Instagram story that the auroras were visible over Kuopio. Either I had to skip enjoying the biriyani and head out for the aurora or vice versa. I chose biriyani as I knew I had missed the show already. Yet, after dinner, something in me was telling me to go out as auroras get better towards late night, but then there was a cloud cover prediction. I reached the same spot from where I had seen it exactly a month earlier. Nothing much visible to the naked eye but my camera got a bit of a green hue. I spent almost three hours there from 9.30 pm to 12.30 am with my camera pointed towards the sky hoping for the auroras to get a bit crazier and get a nice video of it. Unfortunately, nothing much happened except a few sparks in the sky and the passing of haze over the frozen lake. A bit disappointed and having almost drained both the camera batteries I started heading back. Just as I came outside the forest, I couldn’t believe the entire sky was lit up. I wasted no time redeploying my camera but was not sure which direction to point to. It was all over the sky, getting greener bit by bit even on a full moon night and easily visible. Even here I spent another half an hour or so. I was by now already about five hours outdoors in the cold and decided to head indoors — warm up, get my batteries recharged and come out again. The real surprise awaited me close to my apartment. Just as I took the turn to reach my building, I saw the greenest aurora ever with my eye. But by the time I could take out my camera and shoot it, it was off. LOL fact: The brightest aurora I saw was just over the apartment where my friend ‘who couldn’t afford to regret not having seen the aurora’ stayed, but unfortunately she was not in town.

My take on seeing auroras. Spotting aurora is like spotting a Royal Bengal tiger in Sundarbans. You might be tricked into believing a patch of cloud as aurora, just like you might see the black stripes of a tiger among the tall mangrove grass. You need both a keen interest and understanding to track them. Also, the best things come when you least expect them. There were a couple of other times I headed out with high expectations but returned home with an empty memory card.

Stay tuned! With more aurora chases more exciting stories to come.