What to do in Oulu? | Finland beyond Helsinki and Lapland

Oulu ⁠— the stop before Lapland! It is the fourth largest city in Finland, located around 170 km south of the Arctic Circle. The city has been chosen as the European Capital of Culture for 2026. So if you happen to find yourself in this city, here is a list of things that you may want to check out.
Hunt the auroras: I mention this first as this was what brought me to the city for the first time. It was September of 2021 when I saw news of a period of high solar activity that may bring in good auroras. Oulu is one of the southernmost locations in Finland with frequent auroras. Unfortunately, the weekend we travelled to Oulu was cloudy and we got no show. However, it was during another trip later that year, that I finally managed to see the aurora in Oulu. The Facebook group Oulu Aurora Spotters has a map that tells the best locations in Oulu to see auroras. The group also has active members who post about aurora sightings almost immediately.

Winter cycling: Oulu is the winter cycling capital of the world and home to the Winter Cycling Federation. It has the most extensive network of cycling routes in Finland covering the entire city and also the neighbouring municipalities. Not only that they have the routes, but most of them are well maintained and kept illuminated even through the cold dark winters which is basically about half the year. The real thrill of cycling does come when the temperatures go as low as -20°C.

Meet the Toripolliisi: Be it sun or snow, the policeman is on duty overseeing the Oulu’s market square. The bronze statue sculpted by Kaarlo Mikkonen was unveiled in September 1987. It is dedicated to the market police officers who patrolled the area between 1934 and 1979. The Toripolliisi is probably the most recognizable and photographed landmark in the city. So don’t forget to get yourself clicked with the officer.

Eat and shop local at Kauppahalli: Built in 1901, the market hall or kauppahalli, as in Finnish, is one of the iconic buildings at Oulu’s market square. It is the third oldest market hall in Finland after Helsinki and Turku. The red brick building hosts several local merchants selling vegetables, meats, and other locally produced/manufactured items. A cup of coffee and some pastry or piirakka at one of the cafes here might be a good way to start your day in Oulu. Also, if you are looking for souvenirs to take back home, the Kauppahalli is the place to shop at.

Wonder the Wooden City: Just a walk away from the Kauppahalli is the historic Pikisaari island. Located in the estuary of Oulujoki River, the island was once used to house shipyards apart from several other industrial setups like sawmills, distilleries, wool mills, and machine workshops. The island derives its name from the pitch distillery established during the 17th century. Even today you can see some of the old wooden buildings that survived the fires and the test of time. The Sailor’s Home Museum from the early 18th century is said to be among the oldest. Currently, the island is a protected area with limited traffic and is home to some of the charming restaurants of the city. One that I can definitely recommend is the Sokeri-Jussin Kievari, located on a red wooden building just after you have crossed the bridge while coming from Kauppahalli.

Relax at Nallikari: Exit Pikisaari from the other end and head straight until you hit the sea ⁠— that’s where Nallikari beach is. In summer, you can enjoy a dip in the blue sea or practice a variety of water sports. While in winter, as the sea freezes, it is an ideal time to hone your skills in skiing, snow-shoeing, and even ice-fishing. Fat-biking on the vast flat whites is also something you must try while in Oulu.

Hop through the museums of Oulu: The Northern Ostrobothnia Museum is your destination if you want to learn more about the history of this once ‘most internationalized’ Finnish city. The museum, established in 1896, is more than 120 years old and houses exhibits and photographs far older. Among the exhibits, the primary eye-catcher is a miniature model of Oulu before the World War II bombings. Have a nice look at this model and head to the 45-meter tower adjoining Science Centre Tietomaa. See if you can identify where some of the important old buildings were located. The Science Centre Tietomaa was the first science center in Finland and tells stories ranging from technological advancements in Finland to some of the unique natural phenomena that happen in these arctic regions. I remember among the exhibits was a collection of mobile telephonic devices manufactured by Nokia including the game-changer Mobira Cityman 900. Close to the Science Centre is the Oulu Museum of Art which hosts an extensive collection of art, especially Oulu and Northern Ostrobothnia.

Pray at Oulu Cathedral: A distinguishing architecture with a dome and clock tower that you might observe while viewing the city from the top of Tietomaa is the Oulu Cathedral. While the current building was completed in 1832, it stands in the place of an erstwhile wooden church dating back to the 1610s. The current building was built atop the remanent of the stone church that was built to replace the wooden church in 1777 but was burnt down completely during the Oulu fire of 1822.

Check out the remains of Oulu castle: Close to the market square, in the vast green zone along the Oulujoki River, is reminiscent of centuries of history. While it might now be difficult to identify the observation tower as a castle, it is at this site a once impenetrable castle stood in the 1370s. As per records, the castle was built and rebuilt several times and what stands today dates to 1875 when the Oulu School of Sea Captains built their observatory. Currently, the observatory hosts a cafeteria with a small exhibition on the castle’s history.

Ruska: If you are visiting Oulu somewhere around late September or early October, you are just in time for one of the most beautiful seasons to visit Finland. The trees turn yellow preparing to shed their leaves for the winter but put on a final show before they go barren. Especially during the golden hour, the autumn foliage adds a wonderful splendour of colors to the already beautiful landscape. Either experience it up close by taking a stroll in the parks of Oulu or drive down the highways and admire the streets lined with yellowed birch trees. If nothing else, the yellow mohabbatein leaves at Ainolan Puisto would definitely help you fall in love with the city.

Bonus: Where to stay?
While there are several options you will find on Booking.com or AirBnB or any other websites, I will recommend a property that is named “Lovely apr with sauna at the best area of Oulu”. It is a studio apartment suitable for up to two people. Undoubtedly, this is one of the best places I have stayed in while travelling. It is about 4 km from the city centre in an area with limited public transport facilities but just 1 km from the Nallikari beach (one of the recommended places for aurora hunting). If you prefer walking, the shortest path passes through Pikisaari Island.

BTW how to reach Oulu?
Oulu is literally connected by all three modes of transport to the world. You can sail through the Baltic Sea and the Gulf of Bothnia, from anywhere to Oulu. Oulu also has its own airport with direct connections to several European destinations. However, if you are already within Finland or in the Nordics, you might also consider taking the trains or buses. Oulu is connected to Helsinki and other Finnish cities with regular services throughout the day including an overnight train with sleeping berths. A limited number of buses also operate between Oulu and Tornio, where you can cross over to Sweden. The Haparanda bus and railway station have onward connections to several destinations within Sweden. During the peak summer and winter months, there are also direct buses all the way up to Tromsø in Norway. The Arctic Route buses operated from Tromsø connect to Rovaniemi and Oulu in Finland and some of the finest winter destinations in the Arctic including Narvik, Skjervoy, and the Lyngen Alps.

Did I miss anything? Please mention them in the comments below or message me on Instagram (@ag1805x). I might explore them during my next trip! Until then, check out my pictures from Oulu here.

City of Snowman – Kemi | Exploring Lapland by public transport

Kemi is a small town just at the base of the Finnish Lapland where it touches the Gulf of Bothnia. The place might not exactly be on someone’s itinerary more than being a stopover on way further up to Lapland or while returning from there. Even I had just passed through Kemi on my way to Rovaniemie twice — in June and December 2021. But I finally got some time to explore the town during my mid-summer 2022 bike-packing trip. While I may tell about that trip in a separate post, I will here focus on what to do if you happen to be in Kemi.

How to reach?

Kemi is well connected to Helsinki and most other major cities in Finland through buses and trains. Almost all busses and trains on the way to Rovaniemie from Helsinki stopover at Kemi. It might also be possible to hop on the only overnight train service from Helsinki to Rovaniemie. Kemi also has its own airport but the number of connections is limited.

What to do?

Kemi snow castle: A ‘mirage made of diamonds’ emerging from the sea. The primary crowd puller to this town is the snow castle that has been erected every winter since 1996 from the ice and snow sourced from the frozen Gulf of Bothnia. In fact, it is the largest snow castle in the world. The castle is said to be adorned with beautiful sculptures made of ice. Not only that, but you might also be able to sleep on a bed of ice here. As of July 2022, I am yet to visit the castle. Maybe the upcoming winter on my ‘half-yearly trip to Lapland’.

Snow Experience 365: In case you cannot make it to the winter snow castle, there is a smaller castle that can be experienced throughout the year. Similar to the winter ice castle but smaller and obviously built indoors, even this has a couple of beautiful ice sculptures to admire. You might also be able to enjoy a drink sitting on an ice table and stool. Tip: do not miss the ice slide. It’s fun! [W: experience365.fi]

Icebreaker Sampo: This is a unique cruise that starts from Kemi and traverses the Gulf of Bothnia breaking the frozen sea en route. The northern part of the Gulf of Bothnia is among the few places on earth where the sea completely freezes. The three-hour cruise also includes an experience of floating on the icy waters dressed in a survival suit. [W: experience365.fi/icebreakersampo/]

Kemi church: It is a Finnish Evangelical Lutheran church dating back to 1903.

Kemi Museums: Kemi might be a small town but it has been historically important due to its location. It has seen several wars including the two World Wars, the Winter War and the Continuation War. You can learn more about the history of Kemi at the Kemi History Museum. The same building also houses an art and gem gallery. While I was visiting in June 2022, they had an interesting concept of presentation — a gem matched to the colour of a painting. Another interesting collection under the same roof is that of comics. Here you can get yourself familiarised with comics that were once popular in Finland.

Where to next?

Sweden: Just about 30 km west of Kemi is the Swedish border. The border town of Haparanda-Tornio is in itself a unique experience. I stayed in Sweden and ate in Finland. You can freely cross the border. But beware, crossing the border also means crossing over to a different time zone and that can mess up your plans. From Haparanda, you can get bus and train connections further into Sweden.

Check out my clicks from Kemi on Instagram.

Rovaniemi — The hometown of Santa Claus | Exploring Lapland by public transport

Rovaniemi is undoubtedly the most popular destination in the Finnish Lapland. It sits right on the Arctic Circle, around 900 km north of Helsinki. It is the most convenient place in Finland to get to watch the midnight sun in summer and the auroras in winter. Rovaniemi also happens to be the “official” hometown of Santa Claus and you can meet him at his office throughout the year. As of July 2022, I made two visits to Rovaniemi — first during the mid-summer weekend in June 2021 and then again in December 2021 a week before Christmas and I had a contrasting experience either time. Not only because of the contrasting weather but the vibe of the place. During my June visit, the town was literally empty like most other Finnish cities during mid-summer. The Friday I reached there and the Saturday next, only a few restaurants were open and most stores closed early. Even the public transport was not operational on Saturday which threw my plans in jeopardy. In December however, I could hardly find cheap accommodation thanks to the high demand. There were tourists all around. For the first time in Finland, I saw and travelled in a crowded city bus where many passengers had to go standing.
Enough of my experiences! Let me show you Rovaniemi from my perspective.

How to reach?

Rovaniemi has its own international airport and is the third busiest airport in Finland after Helsinki and Oulu. The majority of the traffic is due to international charter flights. While there are a few direct connections to some European cities, you can fly in from anywhere via Helsinki. Rovaniemi is also connected to Helsinki by train several times a day including an overnight sleeper train known as the Santa Claus Express. It is also possible to carry your car on the overnight train. The cheapest option however might be to take the bus. It takes about 13 hours for the trip. Tickets for trains can be purchased from http://www.vr.fi and for busses from http://www.matkahuolto.fi or http://www.onnibus.com. To be noted, Onnibus does not list connections outside their partner operators while Matkahuolto does and may help find busses in Lapland. The Matkahuolto app can be used to find inter-changeable connections between trains and buses.

Where to stay?

Being among the popular tourist destinations, Rovaniemi has no dearth of places to stay. All sort of options is available for all budgets. During my trips, I stayed at the Wherever Mini Hostel and the Guest House Arctic Heart and I would recommend them both if you are tight on budget and/or travelling solo. The other cheaper option would be the Hostel Café Koti. All three places are at a distance of 1 – 1.5 km from the railway station, bus station and the city centre. During the summer months, it is also possible to pitch a tent at the Ounaskoski Camping site on the banks of river Kemijoki across the city centre. Pitching a tent is actually a cheaper option for accommodation in Finland. Arctic Snow Hotel, as the name suggests, provides a unique experience of staying in a room made of ice and snow. Don’t worry you would be sleeping in warm sleeping bags. The Arctic Snow Hotel and several other places also have options to spend the night in a glass igloo or rather glass-domed cabins watching the auroras from the warmth of your bed.

What to do?

Visit the Santa Claus Village (SantaClausVillage.info): Let’s start with the primary crowd-puller of this city. The Santa Claus Village is located around 8 km away from the city centre. Here you can meet Santa Claus in his office throughout the year, have a chat and get a picture clicked. Around Christmas, there are a lot of visitors and you might have a lesser time to share your wishes. I met him during my summer trip and had a nice chat with him about my stay in Finland and about India. The interesting part was when he told me he did visit my hometown, Tura. I got into the flow and was about to ask him when but I soon realised it must be during Christmas. Apart from meeting him, you can also cross the Arctic Circle and get a certificate (though you have to pay a price of EUR 5 or so) or post a postcard to your loved ones. All posts made from Santa Claus’ official post office bear a special postal mark. In case you or any of your close ones cannot make it to meet Santa himself, you can arrange for a video call or request for a personalised letter from Santa himself to be sent during Christmas.
See the midnight sun and the auroras: The two trips I made to Rovaniemi were mainly due to these two natural phenomena. For around a month from June to July, the sun literally never sets and there’s daylight throughout. On the other hand, during the winter months, it is mostly dark with only about two hours of daylight around noon. At night, however, the sky lights up with the aurora provided there are no clouds. In Rovaniemie, both phenomena can be observed from the vicinity of the city centre, the best places being Arktikum Park/Arboretum, Jätkänkynttilä (“Lumberjack’s Candle”) Bridge and Ounasvaara fell. For the auroras to be visible from the city centre, it has to be of sufficient intensity so it would be recommended to go outside the city where there is less light pollution. I would recommend the Arctic Road Trips with whom I had gone hunting. Read more about my experiences of seeing the aurora and how to hunt them in my other blog posts here and here.
Hike, bike, or ski in Ounasvaara Fell: The Ounasvaara Fell on the other side of the river Kemijoki is the hub of sports activities. There are hiking and biking trails maintained throughout the year and ski trails maintained in winter. Just as I mentioned, the top of the fell is one of the best places to see the midnight sun and the aurora. The top has a watch tower and a fireplace and can be reached easily from the city centre by walking for about 4 km. The trail to the top starts on the left after crossing over the Jätkänkynttilä Bridge.
Know more about the Arctic region: The Arktikum Science Centre and museum provide ample information about the nature, culture and history of Rovaniemie and Lapland. It tells the story of how Rovaniemi was almost reduced to the ground during the Second World War and its rise back. The science exhibits are an eye-opener about how we have been degrading the Arctic region. The arboretum outside has a collection of plants found in the region.
Admire the art at Rovaniemi Art Museum: Rovaniemi Art Museum located within the Korundi House of Culture exhibits art inspired by life in Lapland. The Rovaniemi culture pass acts as a discounted single entry pass to Korundi House of Culture, Arktikum and Science Centre Pilke.
Sleigh rides: One of the major touristic activities in Rovaniemi and in other parts of Lapland is to try the reindeer or husky-pulled sleighs. Several companies offer rides at farms in and around Rovaniemi. The Arctic Circle Snowmobile Park organises such rides within the Santa Claus Village. Not only do you get to enjoy the ride but also meet and maybe cuddle them afterwards.
Snowmobiling: As with the sleigh rides, this is another touristic thing in Lapland. The Arctic Circle Snowmobile Park and other operators organise snowmobile trips around Rovaniemi. The trip can also be arranged at night and include aurora hunting.

What and where to eat?

When in Rovaniemi or Lapland in general, one thing that you must try is reindeer meat. Sauteed reindeer meat with mashed potatoes and lingonberry jam is probably the most sought-after dish. I tried my first plate during my summer trip at the Frans & Chérie, restaurant in the city centre. Another restaurant that I would recommend is Lapland Restaurant Kotahovi in Santa Claus Village. While at Santa Claus Village, you can also try salmon cooked traditionally on an open fire and hot berry juice at Santa’s Salmon Place. The interesting thing about this place is it is located within a cone-shaped traditional Lappish teepee or shelter. The fire cooking the salmon is at the centre and you sit surrounding it.

How to get around?

While you always have taxis to move around, walking or biking might be the best way to see the city since most things are close by. You can rent a bike from the hotel or hostel you are staying at or from the places mentioned here. Also to be noted, not all taxi operators are available across Finland. Lähitaksi is said to be the 100% local taxi in Rovaniemi. To visit Santa Claus village, you can take the bus no. 8 which starts its journey from the railway station and passes through the city centre. The timetable for this bus and all other city buses can be found on rovaniemi.digitransit.fi. Else, like me, if you happen to be in Rovaniemi around midsummer when there are limited city busses, you can take the long-distance busses that go towards Ivalo-Inari and get down at the Napapiiri bus stop (tickets are more expensive than the city bus).

Next stop?

Rovaniemi is the hub of all other destinations in Finnish Lapland. From here you can get connecting busses towards Kilpisjarvi and Nuorgam, the two destinations in the two northern extremes of Finland and places en route like Levi, Enontekiö, Ivalo, Saariselkä, Sodankylä, etc. However, there might only be a couple of services per day and usually leave in the morning, so better reconfirm on the Matkahuolto website. Interestingly, while writing this post (July 2022), I also found out that there are direct busses to Karasjok, Tromsö and North Cape in Norway. Beyond Rovaniemi, there is a single service to Kemijärvi.

How much would you end up spending?

From my trips to Rovaniemi and other cities in Finland, I have observed that I end up spending about EUR 100 per day including travel, accommodation and food. Rovaniemi, like any other tourist place, tends to get expensive during the peak seasons around Christmas and the new year. The cost will also proportionally increase based on the type of activities you choose during your stay here. It is also advisable to get the travel tickets early as the train ticket prices skyrocket as the travel days get nearer. Comparatively, the bus ticket prices do not change as much, but limited seats are available.

Before ending the post, there is one thing that I would like to mention if you are visiting Rovaniemi to meet Santa Claus. There are actually two Santa Claus in the village — you can meet one at his office and the other at the Christmas house building (check the second pic). I suggest you meet both of them and decide who is the real one!
Till then do check out the pics from my trips to Rovaniemi on Instagram.

My stories of chasing the aurora in Finland

“Because it is not only about the lights, but the stories behind it that excite me”

28 August 2021: a sudden stroke of luck

Back then, I had never expected to see the northern lights in Kuopio. Though I had heard about these rare sightings, I never expected to be that lucky to see the lights so close to my home. It was a Friday night and I had gone out with my bike to click the sunset (late summer sunset at around 8.30 pm), but by the time I could negotiate a hill and reach the other end of the town, it was already dark. However, the darkness had a surprise for me in store. Like every other day, I halted at the Särkilahti bridge to catch up on my breath from the 30 km ride. I was about to ignore a man thinking he was just out with his dog, but he had his camera and eyes fixed towards the sky. I would have missed the faint aurora but thanks to him it was my first encounter with the northern lights.

25 September 2021: a failed attempt

The September equinox is one of the times when the solar activity is at a peak and the chances of seeing the auroras are higher. It was also in the news about a certain day or days when the aurora might be visible — the start of the season. I decided to improve my chances by travelling further north to Oulu and was accompanied by a friend. At Oulu, we also put up at a place close to the beach which is among the best places to see northern lights in Oulu according to the Oulu Aurora Spotters group. But this trip taught us yet another lesson about travel and hunting auroras — be humble, keep your expectations in check and enjoy whatever comes your way. Every night might be not yours. It was overcast for both the nights we spent there and only cleared just a few hours before we were about to travel back to Kuopio. Even though our target remained unfulfilled, we ended up exploring the city amid the autumn colours.

19 December 2021: the year-end trip — a revisit to Oulu

Not one but the start of three shows. Due to changes in COVID-related travel rules, I had to cancel my trip to home in India and I ended up exploring Finland over two weeks. My first destination on the trip was Oulu. Hoping to catch up on some aurora this time, I again took an apartment close to yet another better aurora viewing spot a bit farther away from the city centre. But just like the previous time, it started getting overcast as soon I reached the city — the curse of Meghalaya. Clouds wouldn’t let me miss home. Cut to the second night. At around 9 pm, I got a notification on the Oulu Aurora Spotters FB group that the auroras were visible. Immediately I reached the Meri-Toppilan puisto which at that time glittered under the white full moon. On the far end of the Gulf of Bothnia, I could feel some strange lines amid the dark sky. My camera was much better at picking up the colours than my eye. Not much of a great show but definitely my first successful Aurora chase! I returned after staying there for over an hour.

20 December 2021: the year-end trip — with the real hunters

After spending two nights in Oulu, I reached Rovaniemi — the capital of Lapland. This is where most people visit in Finland during winter — for just two reasons: Santa Claus and auroras. The office of Santa Claus is located just a few kilometres outside the city, right over the Arctic Circle. Being on the Arctic Circle, Rovaniemi also happens to be the place where you could start seeing the auroras. It is said to be visible every other night during the winter months. The town has several companies that offer aurora hunting tours and one among them was Arctic Road Trips. I had been following them on Instagram for quite some time and their pictures made me determined that I had to take a trip with them. Thankfully I found a seat in their car for that night and we started the chase around 7.30 pm. After driving for about an hour outside the city, we started seeing the auroras. Still faint but understandable. We halted at a place close to a lake to get some pictures till the auroras started getting further faint and also as more people started coming in. Next, the chase took an adventurous turn as we decided to hike up a hill to get some better views. Though at the end we couldn’t see much of the aurora from the top, I would remember the night for the hike under the moonlit sky through the magical snow-covered alpine forest and an amazing barbecue.

25 December 2021: the year-end trip — Ahopää Kiilopää

The northernmost point of my trip was Kiilopää. Given its location, I was hoping to see some nice aurora and had planned to stay at least three nights. Even as I reached the place, the weather looked beautiful with the crimson hue over the horizon at noon marking the polar night’s sunrise/sunset. But soon the curse started haunting me again and the weather turned bad to the extent that there were strong winds and snow on the second day. I tried hiking up to the fell but had to return from mid-way as I could hardly find the trail. However, for the next five days, the overcast conditions actually helped me by maintaining the temperature around -10°C else it would have been difficult for me to bike and hike in the fells of Kiilopää. Christmas finally brought in some presents — the night was clear and indications were high. I along with another South Korean guy ended up hiking halfway to the fell. But soon we realised that the winds were too strong to stay there for long and the blowing snow made it difficult to take clear pictures. We descended to a spot where the wind was comparatively low but the auroras were not that strong. The camera could just manage to capture a starry sky with a flat greenish background. Also, though Kiilopää is an isolated place with minimal inhabitants, it is the lights from Saariselkä in the north that prevented a nice view.

12 February 2022: at home

It was another uneventful Friday night and I was not expecting much. Just before I was heading to bed, I saw an Instagram story about the lights visible further south in Tampere. I cross-checked in the Aurora live cam and it was seriously there. The next thing I did was to go out to the balcony and check the skies — clear it was. Yet without much excitement, I went to the lake and started checking if my cam could see anything. There was something green. I now had to see where I see them better. From all the pictures I had previously seen, I knew it was usually visible in the direction of Puijo tower, so I found a nice place and pointed my cam there and started a time-lapse shoot. The auroras were pulsating in the sky. But for some reason, I had to turn to the other direction and realised that the actual show was going on there and was getting better so that I could capture it on my mobile camera as well. At this moment I knew I had to call someone who couldn’t afford to regret not having seen the aurora — for the first time — so close to home. We spent the next two or three hours enjoying the show as it got crazier. Even for me, I would like to mark this as the first real show and I am glad I saw it with some good company.

13 March 2022: all over the sky

At around 7-8 pm when I was enjoying some home-cooked biriyani, I saw an Instagram story that the auroras were visible over Kuopio. Either I had to skip enjoying the biriyani and head out for the aurora or vice versa. I chose biriyani as I knew I had missed the show already. Yet, after dinner, something in me was telling me to go out as auroras get better towards late night, but then there was a cloud cover prediction. I reached the same spot from where I had seen it exactly a month earlier. Nothing much visible to the naked eye but my camera got a bit of a green hue. I spent almost three hours there from 9.30 pm to 12.30 am with my camera pointed towards the sky hoping for the auroras to get a bit crazier and get a nice video of it. Unfortunately, nothing much happened except a few sparks in the sky and the passing of haze over the frozen lake. A bit disappointed and having almost drained both the camera batteries I started heading back. Just as I came outside the forest, I couldn’t believe the entire sky was lit up. I wasted no time redeploying my camera but was not sure which direction to point to. It was all over the sky, getting greener bit by bit even on a full moon night and easily visible. Even here I spent another half an hour or so. I was by now already about five hours outdoors in the cold and decided to head indoors — warm up, get my batteries recharged and come out again. The real surprise awaited me close to my apartment. Just as I took the turn to reach my building, I saw the greenest aurora ever with my eye. But by the time I could take out my camera and shoot it, it was off. LOL fact: The brightest aurora I saw was just over the apartment where my friend ‘who couldn’t afford to regret not having seen the aurora’ stayed, but unfortunately she was not in town.

My take on seeing auroras. Spotting aurora is like spotting a Royal Bengal tiger in Sundarbans. You might be tricked into believing a patch of cloud as aurora, just like you might see the black stripes of a tiger among the tall mangrove grass. You need both a keen interest and understanding to track them. Also, the best things come when you least expect them. There were a couple of other times I headed out with high expectations but returned home with an empty memory card.

Stay tuned! With more aurora chases more exciting stories to come.

Kuopio — a tourists’ perspective | Finland beyond Helsinki and Lapland

Where is it?

Kuopio is a town around 400 km north of the Finnish capital Helsinki in the Northern Savonia region. This region is also called Lakeland due to the numerous lakes present here. Kuopio, the seemingly capital of Lakeland, almost seems like an island with water bodies on all sides.

How to reach?

Kuopio is connected to Helsinki by European route E63. Busses and trains are also available at regular intervals. Finnair flies in at least once a day from Helsinki.

Where to stay?

Airbnb is a popular option to find accommodation here in Kuopio. There are quite a few hotels in the town. For budget or solo travellers, Hostel Hermanni and Hostel Matkustajakoti are also an option.

What to see?

Kuopion kauppahalli (kuopionkauppahalli.fi): This translates to market hall. It is a beautiful yellow building that represents the centre of the town. The hall and the surrounding areas used to be places where local farmers came to sell their produce. Even today, the hall offers some truly local products.

Kuopio city hall: Located just opposite kauppahalli in the city centre is another impressive old building built in the 1880s. It is currently the administrative centre of Kuopio. In 2009, the building was voted as one of the three most beautiful municipal buildings.

Kuopion tuomiokirkko: It is a stone Neoclassical-style Evangelical Lutheran church dating back to the early 1800s. The cathedral is the seat of the Diocese of Kuopio.

Kuopio Museum Center (kuopionmuseo.fi): The Kuopio Museum of Cultural History, the Kuopio Museum of Natural History and the Kuopio Art Museum together form the Kuopio Museum Center. (Tip; if you plan to visit multiple museums in Finland over a period of up to one year, get a museum card to save on entry fees.)

Puijo Tower (www.puijopeak.fi): The highest point of the town is the Puijo hill and on top of it sits the Puijo Tower. One can get a panoramic view of Kuopio town and the lake that surrounds it. Apart from Google Maps, this is where you can understand what Lakeland is all about. The tower also houses a cafe and a restaurant.

Kuopion korttelimuseo (kuopionkorttelimuseo.fi): If you are particularly interested in the lives of people of Northern Savo during the nineteenth and the early twentieth centuries, this is the place to be. The museum was created to preserve some of the old wooden buildings of the city. In fact, several buildings have been moved from other parts of the city to form this museum cluster. Among the eleven structures here, the oldest dates back to the late 1700s.

VB Photographic Centre (vb-valokuvakeskus.fi): This was the first regional photographic centre in Finland. It hosts several national and international photographic exhibitions throughout the year.

RIISA-Orthodox Church Museum of Finland (www.ortodoksinenkirkkomuseo.fi/en/)

Kuopio automobile Museum (www.kuopionautomuseo.fi)

What to do?

Sauna: Finland is synonymous with the sauna. In Kuopio, the Kuopion Saana and Spa Hotel Rauhalahti offer a public sauna. A more traditional smoke sauna is also available at Spa Hotel Rauhalahti.

Nature trails: In today’s world where forests are inside cities, Kuopio is still a place surrounded by forest. It is said that there is a forest just 500m from your doorstep and that is true. The Finnish everyman’s right allows anyone to explore this forest at any time provided they do not harm them. The nature trails are accessible throughout the year. Find maps and more info here.

Water sports: Being surrounded by water, Kuopio offers a variety of possible water sports including kayaking, rowing, SUP boarding, etc.

Cruise: During the summer months, one can explore Kallavesi on a cruise. The short cruises for about two hours take a trip around the archipelago. Longer cruises all the way to Savonlinna are also available from Kuopio.

Skating and skiing: In winter when the lake freezes, Kuopio hosts the Finland Ice Marathon – one of the first ice-skating events on a natural rink. About 12 km of track for skating and skiing are maintained on the lake. Apart from this, there is a wide network of skiing tracks within the city with the Puijo area being one of the favourites. A map of maintained ski tracks can be found here.

Snowboarding: Kasurila, 18 km from the city centre is a snowboarding destination. It can be easily reached by bus 31, 35 and 40.

Equipment rentals for outdoor activities

• Kuopion Seikkailukeskus Oy (seikkailukeskus.johku.com): Kayak, SUP boards, rowing boats, e-fat bike, and snowshoes.
• Kuopio Water Sports Centre (www.kwsc.fi): Kayak, SUP boards, rowing boats and e-fat bike
• Roll Risteilyt (www.roll.fi): Skiing and skating equipment.
• Spa Hotel Rauhalahti (www.rauhalahti.fi): Skiing equipment, snowshoes.
• Sähkis.fi (Sahkis.fi): e-fat bike
• efatbike.fi (efatbike.fi): e-fat bike
• Partioaitta Kuopio (www.partioaitta.fi): Camping equipment, snowshoes.

Where to eat?

The region of Northern Savonia and Kuopio has been adjudged the tastiest province in Europe for the year 2020-21. So there is no dearth of food to try. The market square and kauppahalli is the best place to start experiencing the food Kuopio has to offer. Especially during summer, the market square is filled with numerous eateries offering the best of Kuopio. Yet when asked about what is unique to Kuopio, you might be directed to Kalakukko. This is a fish rooster. Apart from this muiku fritter, deep-fried small fish from the surrounding lakes is also a great snack option. Another place to try local food would be the Puijo Tower restaurant. According to its website, it source all its raw materials from the area that is within the range of sight of the tower.

How to get around?

Kuopio is a really small town where you can get around walking or cycling. Separate pedestrian cum cycle paths are available throughout the town. During summer, app-based cycle rent is available for the commute. If you are not fond of either of these or have to cover a longer distance, public buses are the best option. Hop-on-hop-off buses and ferries connecting the major sites in Kuopio operate in summer. Last but not least, taxis are available on-call or through app booking.

Next stop?

Tahko (www.kuopiotahko.fi)
Koli national park
Jyväskylä

Check out my clicks from Kuopio on Instagram.

If you are a history buff, you might also be interested in some before and now pics from Kuopio. Click here to see them.